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What's the Deal with Capers?

March 15, 2007

When I was in seventh grade, my mom brought home a jar of capers from the market. I had never heard of capers, which look like pickled peas – and ironically, they are pickled, but they're not peas. Capers are tiny flower buds from a caper shrub (either pickled in vinegar or brined in salt), and when you think of it that way, don't the hairs on the back of your neck stand up? My mom always taught me not to eat berries off of bushes, LEST I DIE – and as I rotated the jar in my hands I realized why she had purchased them.

Attached to the jar was a small fluorescent sticker that advertised the product for only seventy-five cents.

I can see myself now: hand on hip, hip cocked out to the side, impossibly frizzy hair. I laughed, teased my mom, and then asked her what she would cook using the capers. She didn't know, she said, which only instigated more teasing.

For that, I would like to apologize, Mom. I finally understand the joy you take in grocery shopping, and even more so, I identify with the exhilaration you feel when you find items not only on sale, BUT ON CLEARANCE.

I understand this because the genes I inherited from you have matured, and I am the same. I am you, and it is not my worst nightmare, like my twelve-year-old mind used to believe it would be. It is a privilege that I'm like you. And one day, I am sure my own children will release high-pitched giggles and tease me incessantly when I purchase a container of corn smut, or whatever new food I find at the store and decide to bring home.

Since then, my mom has always kept a jar of capers in her pantry. Maybe it is a reminder to herself to always be on the lookout for new, exotic foods to try. Perhaps it serves as a reminder of my brother and I. Or maybe she's still trying to convince me that she actually cooks with capers. (Maybe I'll just stop speculating and call her to ask.)

Jes: "Mom, do you remember the time you bought those capers?"
Mom: "What? No. What are you talking about?"
Jes: (exasperated) "Mom. You can't not remember."
Mom: "…"
Jes: "Mom!! I've teased you about that for the past fifteen years! How can you not remember?"
Mom: (playfully) "Maybe the teasing was so painful I blocked it from my memory."
Jes: "Whatever."
[Refresh her memory. Laugh.]
"Mom, why do you keep buying capers?"
Mom: "I keep thinking I'll figure out something to do with them."
Jes: (clickety-clack, clickety-clack)
Mom: "Are you typing? Jessica Lynne…"

I've eaten capers in several dishes, all prepared by an executive chef and not by my mother, and lo: they were good. So, for my mom, who taught me to love all types of food from every different culture, I give you this recipe: Buca di Beppo's Chicken Saltimbocca, quite possibly the best dish on the restaurant's menu. (And finally, a recipe that involves capers!)


About: THIS DISH
The word "saltimbocca" means "jump into the mouth." This recipe is aptly named, because this delicious dish (pounded with Prosciutto and massaged with sage) seems to fly from your plate to your mouth.

About: CAPERS
The flavor of capers is piquant and lemony. Capers add pungency to Mediterranean dishes like pasta sauces, pizza, fish, meats and salads. They go well with olives, arugula, anchovies and artichokes.


CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA

INGREDIENTS
4 (5 ounce) chicken breasts
4 thin slices Prosciutto ham
1 tablespoon fresh sage
3 ounces (1/4 c. + 2 Tbsp.) olive oil
1 ounce (2 Tbsp.) all-purpose flour
5 ounces (2/3 c.) artichoke hearts, quartered
1/2 ounce (1 Tbsp.) capers
4 ounces (1/2 c.) white wine
2 ounces (1/4 c.) fresh lemon juice
2 ounces (1/4 c.) heavy cream
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon salt

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Lightly salt chicken breasts.
  2. Sprinkle chicken breasts evenly with chopped sage.
  3. Place sliced Prosciutto on top the chicken and pound it into the breast until the thickness of the chicken measures approximately 3/8-inch.
  4. Heat olive oil in a saute pan.
  5. Lightly flour chicken pressed with prosciutto.
  6. Place chicken in heated oil, Prosciutto side down.
  7. Brown one side, turn and brown the other side.
  8. Drain off excess oil, and deglaze with 4 ounces of white wine.
  9. Add artichokes, fresh lemon juice, cream and butter and cook until sauce is thickened.

On a large platter, place chicken breasts topped with sauce and garnish with capers.

Serves: 4

Source: Chef Vittorio Renda, Buca di Beppo

Comments

1

Ooooooooh! Thank you so much for that recipe! It sounds delicious. I love capers. They give just that burst of lemony zing, like you said. Especially in certain pasta dishes. Mmmmmm! Last night I made curried greens, which wasn't too bad for being a vegetarian dish. I could totally picture you as a 12 year old with frizzy hair teasing your mom about the capers from the way you described it. Good times!

2

I'll buy most anything on clearance - but I draw the line at food. That's just too unsettling to me. My mother, however, sounds suspiciously like she was separated from yours at birth!

3

Yummmm...I love capers. I don't eat meat, though, so I might have to look up an alternate dish. Thanks for the reminder, though! :)

4

The capers in liquid and the ones in salt are 2 totally different flavors. The ones in salt, which tend to be pricey, have the improbable flavor of violets and I find them lovely. The other ones not so much.

I don't really like the canned corn smut (huitlacoche in Mexico). It looks disgusting and the texture is off. But the fresh - which still looks damn weird - is among my favorite foods. Like a wonderfully exotic mushroom. If I could get any fresh, I would buy it in a minute.

5

FYI: Capers are also great with smoked salmon. (With creamcheese. On a cracker.) Hear me up there, Zandria?

6

Mike:

You're right! I LOVE to eat capers on a bagel with salmon, cream cheese and thin slices of tomato.

7

I totally lover capers, get your mom to try this recipe http://www.megsmind.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/03/fatisnot.jpg

I tend to use 1/2 dry white wine and 1/2 chicken broth. It's tasty, and easy and great with some pasta.

8

Mmmm...I adore capers. I may or may not eat them straight from the jar. Yeah, that's right. I said it. (That said, I also eat them like a normal person would, sprinkled atop a bagel and cream cheese. ;))

9

Okay Chirky ... anything with a name I can't pronounce or spell that calls for promiscuous ham and quartered hearts IS NOT FOR ME.

But hey, who am I to stop others?

10

This reminds me of the first time I had ever had or purchased capers. My first "caper" recipe ... Lemon Caper Chicken

I thought capers could be found in the produce section and paced back & forth for, like, 20 minutes. I was so mad at the supermarket for not carrying capers ... finally, I asked some pimply 14 year old bag boy, and he directed me to the pickle aisle.

"yeah right" I thought, as I wandered past the jellies and peanut butter.

Lo and behold, there they were in a tiny little jar! I only like capers in cooked meals, but have since gone through several jars.

11

Mmm...I love capers. Like Metalia, I may or may not sometimes eat them straight from the jar. I think it's cool that your mom was willing to try new things--even if only because they were a bargain. My family was (and still is, mostly) less than adventurous in the dining department. Even now, if my sister is along when my parents come to town, and we begin discussing where to go eat, my sister will say "Nothing WEIRD!" ("Weird" including Thai, Vietnamese, Lebanese, Indian--in other words, everything I love.)

12

Count me as another fan of capers (especially the ones you find on sale). Here's my favorite recipe that calls for them: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/recipe_views/views/104705

13

Hiya Jes,

We live on the Central Coast of California, which is approximately 3 hours north of Los Angeles and 4 hours south of San Francisco. The town I live in is about 1 hour north of Santa Barbara. We had a heat wave last week with temps in the high 80s and low 90s. Normally this time of year is cooler, in the mid to upper 60s. The heat wave is very unusual for our area, plus we are behind on our rain for the season. But it still was nice to have the heat and many people were out gardening and sprucing up (we had an unusual frost spell a month ago that destroyed pretty much everybody's yard).

14

Love capers. To make a really quick pasta meal, cook about half a pound of spaghetti. While it's cooking, mix a can of drained tuna with a few (or more) tablespoons of olive oil, a few chopped green olives, a tablespoon of chopped capers, a tablespoon or so of minced onion, salt, pepper, and about half a juiced lemon. When the pasta is done mix it with the tuna mixture, top with some cayenne or crushed chili flakes (if you like spicy) and enjoy. Add more lemon juice and/or olive oil if the pasta looks dry.

15

I love this post and I LOL as I read it too. It is great you have a relationship with your mum that you can both have a giggle and take the piss out of each other so :)
I love capers, I love them with some sour cream or cheese spread, on some nice rye bread with some smoked salmon layered on top and a sprinkling of cracked pepper.
I did not, however, know where capers came from, until now. We were taught never to take berries from a bush either, because my nan had blackberries that are poisonous on her block of bushland when I was a kid. We used to burn them at burning season to try irradicate them. It was fun, but they always did return!!

16

I love this post and I LOL as I read it too. It is great you have a relationship with your mum that you can both have a giggle and take the piss out of each other so :)
I love capers, I love them with some sour cream or cheese spread, on some nice rye bread with some smoked salmon layered on top and a sprinkling of cracked pepper.
I did not, however, know where capers came from, until now. We were taught never to take berries from a bush either, because my nan had blackberries that are poisonous on her block of bushland when I was a kid. We used to burn them at burning season to try irradicate them. It was fun, but they always did return!!

17

Capers! I don't like them much.. but.. they are a beautiful plant (pics are on the blawwwg because they grow wild in Jordan). After seeing them all over creation there, I wondered why? What person in their right mind thought, huh, I'm just going to pick these buds and pickle them.. and then! The arguement I have always heard for figuring out olives (which are inedible until brined as well) was that some fell in a puddle by the sea and then someone ate that.. and I thought to myself.. this is a totally assinine explanation. I mean who eats crap from puddles by the sea? And is that puddle also pressurized? How long did they sit in the puddle? All questions some one has yet to answer for me.

Am about to post another recipe for you.

18

I can honestly say I've never had capers before. Maybe sometime I'll work up enough courage to try them.

19

mmmmmmmmm... capers.

Thanks for the receipe! Although who cooks in ounces??? I am cup and tablespoon kind of girl.

20

Sounds Deee-lish.

BTW lately I've noticed that I am exactly like my mom... and just like you said, it's not the nightmare I thought it'd be when I was 12.

21

And people say they can't think of things to blog about! ;p

I LURVE capers in tuna nicoise salad and especially in butter artichoke chicken with pasta. Mmmm.

22

I commented. Where did it go???

*cries*

23

Capers, huh? Learn something new every day!

I totally have to agree with chickadee on buying things on clearance, though -- food is a little iffy. I mean, there's a reason it's on clearance, right?

24

*Hallelujah Chorus* OMG! Thank you SOOOO much for posting this recipe!!! My husband and I recently ate at Buca for the first time, and the Chicken Saltimbocca was quite literally the BEST thing I have ever eaten! I got online tonight with the intention of finding a passable imitation, and instead found the real thing! You are amazing... I don't know how you got the recipe, since none of the chefs here in Austin would give it up to us, but I thank you for it! You just made my whole day. =)

J. Gonzalez



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